Landlocked, defined by indigenous varietals and with a slate of referential natural producers – Umbria might just be the most unique place in Italian wine.

This is truly central Italy, tucked between coast-huggers Tuscany and Le Marche. Almost completely encircled by the Apennine mountains, Umbria really couldn’t be more landlocked; or, more distinct from its neighbors.

Most unique: the reference point producers are ardently natural, making loud wines (mainly from the highly local Sagrantino and Trebbiano Spoletino) that could be from nowhere else.

We’re reminded of all of this by new landings from two of the very best: Paolo Bea and Collecapretta.

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PAOLO BEA

No estate looms larger in the world of Umbrian wine than Paolo Bea. Practically synonymous with Montefalco, the Bea family has been speaking their thick Umbrian dialect for over 500 years. But, it was in the latter half of the 20th century that Paolo Bea resisted the modernization of farming and winemaking and kept to a fiercely natural methodology – and ultimately, his absurdly expressive style.

For many years now his son Giampiero Bea has maintained this distinctive balance of raw energy and luxurious texture.

Specifically for the reds on offer below, it’s achieved through gentler extractions, slow fermentations, and a graceful touch that turns Sagrantino’s classically burly tannins into sumptuous texture – the wines are voluminous.

The whites (not to be missed in a separate release!) are a kaleidoscope of textures, aromatics, and traditional growing techniques not seen elsewhere. Truly Umbrian.

It’s also worth noting that Giampiero has had impressive influence beyond the family estate, all the way down to Sicily: as a founder of the local natural wine consortium ViniVeri; a consultant to our favorite nuns in Lazio, the Monastero Trappiste di Vitorchiano; and mentor to Il Censo's Gaetano Gargano, whom he helped revive his family's old vines.

2021 'Cotidie' Umbria Rosso $60
2019 ‘San Valentino’ Umbria Rosso $62
2018 ‘Pipparello’ Montefalco Rosso Riserva $95
2011 Montefalco Sagrantino Passito DOCG $105
2017 ‘Cerrete’ Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG $175/magnum $380
2019 ‘Pagliaro Secco’ Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG $110+
Note, this 'Pagliaro Secco' bottling is one of the top Sagrantino vintages bottled at the estate, and is also available in magnum and 3L

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COLLECAPRETTA

The through line here is: Umbrian roots run deep. The Mattioli family has sustained the family farm just outside of Spoleto for almost 1K years (yep!) and, like the Beas, they are synonymous with their tiny (almost hidden) hometown of Terzo la Pieve.

In keeping with their inherently natural traditions, it’s a closed-circuit farm with olives, grains, livestock (for compost, cheese, salami!) and 5 hectares of old vine indigenous varieties.

From which they make almost a dozen cuvées, showcasing the diversity of distinctively Umbrian varieties and terroirs within the estate.

Now Annalisa, daughter of winemaker Vittorio, is passionately carrying the family's legacy forward.

While this incredibly neighborly family may come across as unassuming, the quality – and tbh, the quality:price ratio – of the wines cannot be understated. Complex and layered, with effortless depth that is Umbrian to its core.

The (mostly quite old) vines are farmed on traditional Umbrian trellises, and the wines are generally fermented and aged in cement, stainless steel and fiberglass tanks. No sulfur, fining or filtration. Altogether making for one of the purest expressions of Umbria.

2022 'Il Prodigo' Bianco $40
2022 'Terra dei Preti' Trebbiano Spoletino $45
2021 'Le Cese' Sangiovese $40
2021 'Il Burbero' $45
2020 'Il Forestiero' $68

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