New Year, New Lienhardt

01/05/24
It's been fun to watch the evolution of now-star Burgundy grower Antoine Lienhardt.
The range below just landed – a delicious way to start our 2024.

When he first had a foothold in the store, Antoine's wines were less known and the styles leaned classic. Dark in the glass, brooding on the palate.

But slowly over the years – '18 and '19 being a real turning point – he started transitioning from the broad shouldered Burgundy we expected from him, to a more aromatic, lithe style. One that favored whole cluster infusion over cold soaks, and lower ABVs over power.

Fast forward to today, and Antoine uses 100% whole-clusters for a gentle infusion, vinifying without sulfur. Fermentation and aging happens in an array of vessels: concrete egg, fiberglass tanks and (of course) older oak barrels. The same delicate hand can be seen in his whites, of which there are two new bottlings: a Meursault and a longer élevage bottling of his ‘20 Aligoté.

These wines really just keep getting better and better (and, more coveted!) - current release is below. But first, some more back story:
A NEW VOICE IN BURGUNDY

Unencumbered by centuries of tradition and expectation, Antoine Lienhardt has been free to challenge classical farming and vinification–emerging as a go-to for natural wine lovers seeking truly pure expressions of Burgundian terroir.

Lienhardt has been a staple in our Burgundy section since the early days of Leon & Son, but we're especially excited have the widest range of cuvées yet. But don't sleep on these, quantities are still limited. You will not be disappointed.

As a child, Antoine convinced his grandmother to rope off a section of her garden so he could tend his own plants and vegetables–spiritedly awaiting the day when he would inherit his grandfather’s vines.

Though he comes from a legacy of grape growers, Antoine was the first in his family to produce estate-bottled wine. After taking over the family vineyard in Comblanchien–first planted in the 1960s–he transitioned to biodynamics, with close attention paid to biodiversity and soil health.

Through this focus in the vineyard, Antoine brings to life his belief that the under-celebrated terroir of his home village (the southernmost in Côte de Nuits) ranks with the nearby Grand Crus. We’re inclined to agree.

In the cellar, inspiration comes from natural winemaking colleagues beyond the borders of Burgundy. For the Pinots, he uses 100% whole-clusters for gentle infusion, and the wines are vinified without sulfur in a unique array of vessels: fermentation in concrete eggs and fiberglass tanks followed by 8-12 months aging in older oak barrels.

The resulting wines are loaded with crunchy fruit and unrelenting energy. And killer whites from Chardonnay and Aligoté deliver tension, texture and refreshment.

The brightness and verve of Antoine's wines are paving a path for the future of Burgundy. At the nexus of natural winemaking and legendary terroir, it's no wonder he's gained an almost-rabid following by those in the know.

JAN 2024 RELEASE:

'21 Meursault Blanc Sous la Velle
A first! From 60-year-old vineyards in the village of Comblanchien

'22 'Gamayoptere' Coteaux Bourguignons
Highly crushable gamay, fermented naturally in open top wood fermenters

'22 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Made from two vineyards on the bottom of the village of Comblanchien, bringing juicy fruit to his fresh style

LIEU-DIT BOTTLINGS:

'22 Cote de Nuits-Villages 'Les Plantes Aux Bois'
Arguably the most famous of his Lieu dit bottlings, impressive. Rewards cellaring.
 
'22 Cote de Nuits-Villages 'Les Essards'
The most detailed and arguably most flexible bottling in the site-specific wines.

'22 Cote de Nuits-Villages 'Aux Vignottes'
Deep clay here makes for equally sumptuous Pinot.

'22 Cote de Nuits-Villages 'Emphase'
A blend of six parcels made whole cluster, aromatically styled by the partial semi-carbo used here. 

'22 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
A sensuous Santenots bottling, only the second vintage we’ve seen from Lienhardt.

'22 Savigny-Les-Beaune Village Rouge
Reads like way more than a village wine, such an elegant and fresh representation of Savigny.

ALIGOTÉ!

Two cuvées from the same site and farming, but one is a new long élevage bottling that sees three years of time prior to being bottled. And, wildly different vintages to boot. This would be a great side-by-side:

'21 Bourgogne Aligoté

'20 Bourgogne Aligote [35 mois d'elevage]