Roero's Centenarian Nebbiolo

05/02/25
Though Renato Vezza's Bricco Ernesto is based in Roero—a region we admire and continue to watch as its sandy soils rise to meet the challenges of a warming climate—his wines stand distinctly apart from his neighbors.

At the heart of the estate are 100 year-old Nebbiolo vines, planted long before Roero became synonymous with zesty white wines. But even more than appellation norms, it's Vezza’s bold, ambitious approach to farming and vinification that set his work apart.

Intensely structured and layered with waves of Piedmontese flavors we love, they speak to a new generation of collectors and wine lovers alike. We sat down with the latest release — details below.

Renato Vezza left Roero to work as a sommelier in one of the world’s great wine cities: London. There, he was exposed to benchmark wines from across the globe—a perspective he brought back home when he returned to farm his family’s land, originally planted by his grandfather, Ernesto. Perched on the “Bricco,” i.e. the top of the hill, Vezza launched Bricco Ernesto in 2015 in honor of the man who planted the family vines.

Good farming has always been a priority: certified organic since 1990, one of the first in the region; and when Vezza took over, he began incorporating biodynamic practices (and, introduced Arneis to the vineyard) becoming fully biodynamic in 2022. Vezza prefers a wildness to his vineyards – longer canes, thick cover crop – believing it adds energy to the vines and, ultimately, the fruit.

Tacking back to his experience with the world’s great Nebbiolo, Vezza takes a refined yet traditional approach to vinifying his reds. Fruit is hand-destemmed and fermented with native yeasts using the submerged cap method for maceration, only pumping over as needed. Macerations can stretch up to eight weeks before the wine is pressed off into barrel, where it rests for a year before bottling—followed by another year in bottle prior to release.

Both of his Nebbiolo cuvées carry the serious structure you’d expect from Barolo or Barbaresco, but with the lifted perfume that’s so distinctive to Roero’s sandy soils:

2022 Bricco Ernesto Rosso Piedmont $85
A blend of all estate-grown Nebbiolo

2021 Bricco Ernesto Roero DOCG Piedmont $179
From the oldest Nebbiolo plot of the family's original plantings

The tiny amount of Arneis he makes is fermented on its skins before being pressed off and raised 6 months in amphora. A luscious, golden wine that shows a very different side of Arneis:

2023 Bricco Ernesto Bianco Piedmont, Italy $74
From one of the highest elevation plots in Roero

 Lastly, through 2022, Vezza farmed a neighboring plot which allowed him to make a wine outside of his estate Nebbiolo and Arneis plots. Called ‘Rebellious Nature,’ the ‘22 is a co-ferment of Nebbiolo, Freisa, Bonarda, and Barbera with a smattering of white varietals. 

The wine is experimental, powerful; bringing to mind Stella di Campalto’s similarly experimental-yet-delicious 'Choltempo':

2022 Bricco Ernesto 'Rebellious Nature' Rosso, Piedmont $49
From three biodynamic vineyards in Roero and Emilia Romagna

Though this vineyard is no longer available, the 'Rebellious Nature' label will continue as a collaboration with likeminded producers. Excitingly, the ‘23 is being raised in Chiara Condello’s cellar. 

Overall, it's an exciting, expressive lineup that reframes a classic area. We're excited to see these land on Fulton.

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